well, made it back from cancun safe and sound, if sunburned. beautiful, as expected. not a lot of changes since last visit, although I was shocked at how many resorts are still closed from katrina damage--maybe as many as a third, I'd say. it's surreal to see all the enormous luxury hotels standing empty with windows broken out and scaffolding surrounding them. cancun seems to have become less of an exclusively american destination, as well. awful lot of scotsmen and russians, to say nothing of canadians.

we went to isla mujeres on tuesday, where justin played with dolphins and I went with dad on a submarine tour of the reef (mom just chilled and watched iguanas). on wednesday we tromped around the mayan ruins of tulum and then went to xel-ha, which is by far the greatest thing I've ever done there. it's a waterpark, but all of the bodies of water are natural, so instead of tubing in big cement rivers you get to do it in REAL ones. we snorkeled down the big river twice, gawking at all the gorgeous tropical fish. there are even a couple of cliffs where you can jump off into deep water, which justin did. we also swam through a cave and various other things. it was amazing. the rest of our time was spent lazing by the pool and beach, taking full advantage of the unlimited booze.

the first batch of boring vacation pictures will be online late today/sometime tomorrow. in the meantime, enjoy these cancun travel tips (having been all of twice now, I'm an expert):

1) most places accept both dollars and pesos, but check out the exchange rate before you go. there's a good chance that using american currency will get you ripped off. best to change it over.
2) keep plenty of small currency on hand for tips. tipping is a BIG deal.
3) everyone fully expects you to stay drunk off your ass, so go for it. but you're also expected to be respectful. obnoxious drunks are unpopular worldwide.
4) speaking of drinking, all inclusive hotels are great for a lot of reasons, all you can drink liquor not the least of them. but resort bartenders' knowledge and supplies only stretch so far. stick to basic mixtures (rum and coke, screwdrivers, etc) and the better known blended ones (margaritas, daiquiris, etc). if you want something different, just ask the bartender for "a blue one" or "something green." seriously, you'll hear tons of folks doing it.
5) unless you're fluent in spanish, stick to english. in the hotel zone nearly everyone speaks it, and trying to use spanish if you're iffy will get you in over your head conversation-wise.
6) at the resorts the employees know you're a tourist. they will be anxious to give you all the info you need on where you're going and how to get there. so DON'T leave the hotel until you feel confident that you know what you're doing. triple check everything first to avoid getting lost and wasting time.
7) everyone smokes everywhere. just so you know.
8) if you want to do anything besides chill and shop, plan at least one day ahead. pretty much all tours and activities require reservations and payment up front (and generally getting up very early). it's not a bad idea to pick up some brochures and plan out each day of your visit as soon as you arrive.
9) if you're going to do anything like snorkeling or diving, your sunblock MUST specify "biodegradable." it will be confiscated otherwise. and for the love of all that is holy, buy it before you go. otherwise you risk paying $20+ plus for a bottle. trust me.
10) mexico has more of a rep for homophobia than the u.s. but it's actually much more common there to see straight friends dining/hanging out in same sex pairs than it is here in my part of the states, so doing the same as a gay couple ain't no thang. I wouldn't recommend that guys make out in public or wear eyeliner...but that has more to do with general good taste than precautions in a foreign country.

and it's back to the real world. blecch.